Petallurgy

Petallurgy is the Grand Mademoiselle's term for the science, nay the art, of adorning shoes with lovely, feminine details. Fall/Winter fashion abounds with such gorgeous spectacles, and the Grand M delights in ruffles, bows, pleats, and other deliciously decadent components composed of chiffon, satin, and leather. Petallurgy is uniquely concerned with the properties of these details, and their perfect production and purest form. In that sense, decline flats brimming with bows (too much for too little shoe) in favor of elegant T-strap heels. Opt for stark colors like black and gray instead of pastels (too cutesy). Steer clear of all-over adornment (too...much) and pick a pair with one centralized and exciting decoration. The Grand M has selected her three favorite examples of petallurgical design this season, each a successful representation of the coveted (and newly coined) art.


Loeffler Randall always astounds the Grand M for impeccable construction, inspiring design, and a perfect color palette. The 'Colette' is no exception, and thrills with its sleek dual side ankle buckles in tiny scale, beautifully brushed black satin, and unfussy cascade of gently pleated ruffles. The toe is nicely pointed (not too round, not too triangular) and the 3.5" heel is sinfully womanish. Loeffler Randall manages to perfect the art of petallurgy with the 'Colette' and Grand M's are happy to reap the reward! For the little (foot) minded, choose this delightful confection from MAXSTUDIO. The 'Salsa' is another 3.5" wonder, constructed of a lovely, muted gray satin and cut in that old-fashioned favorite T-strap style, decorated with petallurgical restraint in gray chiffon and teensy crystal beads. Anything more would be garish, and the Grand M is beside herself to have found this beautiful number in sizes that ladies with tiny feet will find amenable.


To add the final bloom to this adventure, my budding petallurgists, don the 'Punch', Natalie Portman's wonderful creation for Te Casan this season. All of Portman's designs are vegan, which is mere icing on an already delicious bit of shoe heaven. Another 3.5" black T-strap, the Grand M knows, but a real standout for its fun chiffon toe pompom (yes, pompom!). Who would have guessed that a cheerleader staple could be so chic? Only the petallurgically inclined...

Balmorals Lament

The Oxford is a tricky shoe, at once elegant and playful while retaining an air of sad, Scottish mystery. Enhance the elegance and risk losing the baleful woe; enhance the misty, noir aura and risk losing the upbeat energy. Worn by businessmen and schoolgirls alike, the Oxford is a veritable panoply of footwear confusion. If you don a flat Oxford, you may inadvertently end up looking too masculine and too juvenile in the same stroke. What to do? Use history as your guide and select a pair of high-heeled, black bootie Oxfords that will simultaneously represent modern femininity while paying homage to the style's wistful, chilly Balmoral origin.


Take a page from the Fall/Winter 2008 Collection of venerable design house Ports 1961, who always manages to churn out gorgeous, eerie clothing collages depicting a specific mood or era. While many designers attempt to represent themes, few are as successful as Ports 1961, who offers luscious, tale-telling garments without feeling silly. The Fall/Winter 2008 Collection is a throwback to the odd beauty of Gaelic mythology, offering a romantic and earthy portrait of the Scottish highlands, as viewed through a fashionable lens. Highlighting the dark mood and supernatural whimsy of Scotland, the Ports collection is enchanting, and impossible to deny for its rich, heady elegance and stark sculpturalism. Rustic tweeds and wool gauze replace heavy knits and boiled overcoats, creating a sinfully decadent yet minimal aesthetic. The harshly muted grey backdrop presents a beautiful vista for the Grand M's favorite Ports look, and the monochromatic tone of the garments imparts a masculine edge layered upon feminine twists. The Grand M will use this look as her Oxford inspiration.


In keeping with the offbeat tone of Ports' collection, opt for edgy quirks when selecting an Oxford. Odd and unexpected cutouts are key, as are strange twists, epitomized by the Dolce Vita Marlo, which manages to capture the masculine surge of the Balmoral in a wooden ombre chunky heel that is tempered by a delightful lack of laces, saving the Marlo from that staid, formal Oxford tendency. Most importantly, the Marlo is available in large sizes. If you're searching for something a bit more elegant (and you have a small foot), choose the Coventry heel, by Stuart Weitzman. The Coventry is an avant garde Oxford, with its open toe and side quarter cutouts, made in combination patent leather and sumptuous satin. The towering 4" heel is simply sinful when worn with the laces undone. Slip into either of these nouveau Oxfords and witness the power of history when paired with modern fashion!

All Tucked In

The onset of winter has the Grand Mademoiselle itching for a brand new pair of boots. In style seasons past, the fabulous fervor leading up to designers' boot debuts fizzled fast as fashionistas chose pants that covered up the intricate details that distinguish one pair from another. With nothing showing but the toe, all the Grand M saw was tonal variations of a pointy tip, leaving much to the imagination and masking some pretty magnificent creations. This year, the Grand M looks forward to boot season with renewed vigor and sense of purpose, determined to showcase her gorgeous finds with low-key pants tucked in, so as not to steal the show.


What makes a great boot? The options seem endlessly combined and complicated, but this season, there are key elements that the Grand M is looking for, namely, clean lines, soft leathers, easy construction, and simple sophistication. It's all too easy to mess up even the simplest boot, but little variations on a classic theme give the best results. Two options come to mind at the moment: a classic high-heeled boot, and a funky high-heeled boot, both based on the idea of a functional yet stylish shape without giving it all away for a silly trend. Pick one boot for substance, and one for individual style expression, both of which can exhibit trendy know-how without sacrificing taste. For substance, the Grand M has selected the Bally Balnerina in a classic, chocolate brown leather. The sumptuous, cognac hue and daringly modest three inch heel are a study in perfection, capped off by a delicately rounded toe and stunningly chic tunnel knee-high shaft. This is the boot of yore, that gorgeous, softly feminine shape that at once screams sexy without saying too much. The shape has often been attempted, but has not always been met with wild success, and all too easily a classic boot has fallen prey to cliche without realizing its full potential. Simple is best, but luxurious is essential.


For individual style expression, the Grand M is wild about the Chie Mihara Cunsi, a gorgeous knee-high boot, again in a lovely brown leather. The Cunsi is unlike any boot the Grand M has seen before, and the eclectic rum hue, tall slouchy shape, and indie-chic button-down top all demand exhibition, making these the perfect boots to mix and match with your winter wardrobe. Tuck a pair of skinny grey-washed jeans into these boots, and don a pin-striped tuxedo jacket over a thinly knit cashmere top and strut your way into winter fashion nirvana!